I have been on the same quest. I have used Ableton on mac/windows and I’m eyeing Bitwig. I tried Ardour for a little bit, but never gelled with it. Ardour would probably be fine if I did some effort on learning the interface, but I didnt find it that intuitive.
I found bitwig to be really easy to use coming from Ableton. I am also keeping an eye out and supporting the ZRythm development and I hope it can become a decent FOSS alternative.