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…Brought to you by Carl’s Jr.
Progenitor of the Weird Knife Wednesday feature column. Is “column” the right word? Anyway, apparently I also coined the Very Specific Object nomenclature now sporadically used in the 3D printing community. Yeah, that was me. This must be how Cory Doctorow feels all the time these days.
…Brought to you by Carl’s Jr.
That, and the inevitable avalanche of community recreations of the basic shape that followed threatened to doom the original to irrelevance anyway.
Trying to tell 3D printing and CAD nerds you can’t make [object] is a fool’s errand, because enough people with time on their hands will just reverse engineer your [object], possibly improve upon it in the process, and post it everywhere to be given away.
I’m well into considering the build a car avenue myself. Since new cars are all bullshit now, I’m seriously tempted to just remove the drivetrain from my truck when it finally conks out and stick a kit built aftermarket EV powertrain in it instead.
For reference, my truck is so dumb it has crank windows. I’d like to keep it that way.
Also, one of the biggest killers of 3D printed parts is heat, and the other is ultraviolet exposure. If OP is putting this in his fridge I think it’s in the one place it’s going to encounter very little of both.
Watertight and waterproof are not quite the same thing.
Almost all 3D printable materials are waterproof, in that they will not dissolve in water. (With the exception of, e.g., PVA which is sometimes used as a dissolvable support material.) I realize this is not the intent of your question, but a lot of people seem to get it twisted about various polymers absorbing moisture/being hygroscopic/becoming “wet” and therefore believe that they literally melt or soften in water over time or something. This is not the case.
3D prints can be made watertight but it does not necessarily follow that all of them are by default. This will be dependent on your print settings and, to a certain extent, your print material. Some materials are more isotropic than others and the layer lines stick together more readily without gaps. TPU leaps to mind, which can be made extremely watertight very easily.
Use a lot of walls – another poster recommended 4, that’s probably a good place to start. Don’t forget to increase your top and bottom layer counts as well. You may need more top or bottom layers than walls, because your layers are probably thinner in the Z axis than your nozzle extrudes in X and Y. If dimensional clearance is not an issue and in your case it seems it isn’t, consider increasing your extrusion multiplier slightly in the walls as well, to ensure that material is squished into any potential gaps. Avoid sharp corners or tiny points on your model, which upon slicing may be incompletely filled. Avoid long unsupported bridges as well, because the couple of layers where these inevitably sag will wind up non-solid. If possible, make the outer shell of your model an exact multiple of your wall extrusion thickness so your slicer will not have to guess at any areas and try to fill them with tiny points or similar. If you play back your slicer’s preview of a single layer you’ll see what I mean.
If you really want to employ the nuclear option, instruct your slicer to iron every single layer. This will make your print take forever, but each individual later will be extremely authoritatively bonded together in the X and Y axes, with no gaps.
If failure is not an option, coat your object after completion with Flex Seal or Plasti-Dip or something.
But then what will they make Pringles out of?
I took a look at OP’s machine and it appears to be one of those deals with one big central hinge cover with upper and lower clamshell halves. So, we’re both sunk. It’s symmetrical in this case, but there is nothing to mirror. They will need to have an existing one (or all the bits and pieces of their busted one, maybe) to measure up and clone.
But yes, I have also seen laptops where the left and right hinges and/or their covers are different from each other.
Or if the parts are mirror images of each other for the left and right hinges, carefully measure the remaining intact one and flip it.
You’re in the same boat as me, except swap 70’s for 1920’s. I have to tear down all the plaster – not drywall, actual literal plaster, on lath – to get at the ground floor wiring. I decided it’s fine where it is for now.
What a useless pile of words spent moaning about ad clicks, specifically to gain ad clicks.
Don’t talk, “organize.”
Okay, how? How do we effectively organize to fight against an enemy who has already for all intents and purposes won, in a way that won’t get us rounded up and shot by the Gestapo? Please tell us.
“We don’t know, that’s your problem. Just ‘organize.’”
You used the magic word, “modern.”
Lots of houses in this world are not modern, and some of them are old enough that they were retrofitted to have electricity, as mine was, rather than even being built with it to begin with. And done so in a haphazard manner when electrical codes were either much more lax than now or didn’t exist. And further when the expected power draw for a household was considerably lower, because basically all of it in the 1920’s or whatever was only used for lighting and we didn’t have all of our current appliances, TV’s, computers, 3D printers, or even indoor space heaters.
So moaning about what ought to be rather than what is really doesn’t accomplish anything, especially in OP’s case.
My small house has basically the entire ground floor wired to only two 15 amp circuits.
Let’s not kid ourselves, most people will not start looking at Linux. They should, but they won’t. They’ll continue to use the version of Windows their machine came with, becoming a botnet petri dish in the process, forever, until it breaks or becomes unusable. If Microsoft actually forces their machine to become unbootable they’ll rush off to the mall and replace it with a Mac.
And in the meantime they’ll click off any nags and warnings Microsoft sends them without reading them.
Just like happened with XP.
Just like what happened with Vista.
Just like what happened with 7.
Etc.
Most users are clueless, barely understand how to use their computers except by rote, and therefore are extremely afraid of change. Microsoft could offer a free puppy with your updrade to Win11 and I think about 75% of users would still refuse to take it.
Dead Cells?
Emphasis, perhaps, on the “lite” part of Roguelite. But it does have that Roguelike run structure where the levels and the items you find therein are randomized. But with side scrolling platforming gameplay with a very distinct set of fast double-jump-dodge-roll-parry-combo mechanics that I think can best be summed up as ninja gameplay. And you will get killed… a lot. There is a permanent progression system of a sort in the form of unlocking more weapons and items (and later, to re lock items you don’t like), but your core stats remain the same. This is one of those games where the real progression is on your own personal quest to git gud.
I think it’s pretty unique in that it has no dud weapons or items whatsoever. Everything – literally everything – has the potential to be viable and can be absolutely deadly when wielded in the right hands. Even the joke items.
It also has not one, but two weapons which involve beating the shit out of your enemies with frying pans. What’s not to love?
There is indeed a Switch version.
There are plenty of perfectly legit uses of “master,”
Like the Digmaster™.
Especially since in the height of my pirating years during teenagerdom, no amount of cajoling or coercion could get me to pay for whatever it was because I didn’t have any money. Which not at all coincidentally was why I was pirating it in the first place.
These dweebs always operate from the frankly invalid preconception that if the pirate had not pirated the media they would have paid for it and therefore they’re “owed” a sale, but that’s not how it works. I imagine that if the vast majority of people were unable to pirate their thing, they simply would not watch/listen/read/play/consume the thing at all.